The Double Breasted Suit

Mens double breasted suit

The Double Breasted Suit

Mens double-breasted suit originally created for the sporting pursuits of British aristocrats in the late 19th century, the double-breasted jacket was inspired by the naval reefer jacket, which was originally worn by sailors who had the job of “reefing the sails”.

Surprisingly, it was considered somewhat informal at first. However, that changed in the 1920s and ’30s when the Prince of Wales began to popularise the style. Soon after, Hollywood stars like Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant embraced the look, securing its place in sartorial history.

Over the years, the double-breasted jacket has gone in and out of fashion. But now, it has made a strong return, appearing on runways and the covers of men’s fashion magazines. Today, modern men are rediscovering and appreciating its classic lines and flattering fit, making it a staple once again.

A double-breasted suit is defined by its overlapping front, with two parallel rows of buttons, typically six. It often features wide peak lapels, giving it a bold and formal look. The structured fit, combined with the cinched waist, enhances the long, clean lines, which are a key goal in tailoring for men. These visual elements make the double-breasted suit stand out as a strong and stylish option.

Duke of Windsor in a double breasted suit
Humphrey Bogart in a double breasted suit
Double breasted suit worn by Cary Grant

For Formalwear Only?

Starting as a naval jacket and initially considered somewhat informal, the double-breasted suit has evolved into what many now see as the utmost formal attire, often worn as a tuxedo jacket. It has made a strong comeback as a timeless classic. Not only does it make a statement at parties or formal events, but it also gives you an edge and a sense of superiority.

As seen to the right, our off-white 4-ply dinner jacket makes you standout at almost any black-tie event.

The white tuxedo jacket is commonly worn at formal events such as weddings, galas, and black-tie functions, especially in warmer climates.

Ben wearing a Off-white dinner jacket
charcoal grey flannel suit, work by Andreas Weinas and made by mond of copenhagen

The Power Suit

The double-breasted suit exudes power, which is why we’ve seen it in so many films from the ’80s and ’90s, such as Wall Street, Cocktail, American Psycho, and more recently, The Wolf of Wall Street. The power suit, also known as the ‘Wall Street uniform,’ has secured its place as a timeless classic in menswear—not just as a staple among finance professionals.

But don’t be intimidated by the fact that the double-breasted suit can be an eye-catcher. Your options are many. Choosing the right fabric can help you adapt the suit to fit your workplace or social environment.

For example, Andreas Weinås chose a subtle grey flannel for this reason. It allows the flexibility of wearing the suit as separates, with the trousers or jacket working perfectly on their own for most occasions.

The double breasted tuxedo

The double-breasted tuxedo is also gaining more influence in the black-tie category. When opting for a classic piece like a black tuxedo, many people want to add a personal touch to make it stand out.

Choosing a double-breasted configuration shows an eye for detail and suggests that your tuxedo is likely MTM (Made-to-Measure) or bespoke, as most off-the-rack tuxedos are typically single-breasted.

MOND’s selection of double-breasted tuxedo jackets
Weinas White Dupioni Silk Dinner Jacket
Andreas Weinas in a Black Doeskin Jacket by Mond

In Conclusion

In conclusion, whether you’re opting for a black-tie event or making a statement in everyday menswear, the double-breasted suit and tuxedo offer versatility and timeless appeal. From the power and authority showcased in iconic films to the subtle elegance of modern fabrics and custom tailoring, these garments transcend trends. Their ability to be customised, from fabric choice to fit, ensures that the double-breasted style remains both distinctive and adaptable. Embracing this classic piece allows you to stand out with confidence, no matter the occasion.

Questions about double-breasted suits

Who should not wear a double-breasted suit?

While double-breasted suits can work for many body types, they may not be the best option for shorter or stockier individuals. The overlapping fabric and structure can add bulk or make a person appear shorter, as the cut emphasises the width of the torso. If you’re concerned about height or want a slimmer silhouette, a single-breasted suit may be a better choice. However, a well-tailored double-breasted suit can work for almost anyone with the right fit.

Can you wear a double-breasted suit casually?

Yes, the double-breasted suit can be worn in more casual settings, depending on the fabric and style. Opting for lighter fabrics like linen or cotton, and avoiding heavily padded shoulders or formal details, can help tone down the formality. Pairing the jacket with casual shoes or even dressing it down with chinos or jeans instead of dress trousers can make the look more versatile for smart-casual occasions.

Is a double-breasted suit more formal than a single-breasted suit?

Traditionally, double-breasted suits are seen as more formal due to their structured silhouette and association with power dressing. However, with modern tailoring, the line between formal and casual has blurred. Single-breasted suits can be equally formal depending on the fabric, fit, and styling. Ultimately, the formality depends on how the suit is worn and accessorised.

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