The Groom’s Guide To Understanding Dress Codes

custom made beige wedding suit with Windsor tie knot

The groom’s attire sets the dress code

We know that it can be tricky to navigate the dress code jungle – especially in a time where dress codes are very rarely upheld. That is unless the occassion is… yes, you’ve guessed it: a wedding.
As a groom or a guest, it is important to understand that the groom’s choice of wedding attire sets the dress code for all guests. With this guide, you will be able to identify which dress code you want to set if you are the groom, or how to interpret the dress code on your invitation if you are a guest.

Remember, we are always at your service if you need assistance with dress codes. Contact us through the site’s chat function or visit us in-store.

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White Tie

Morning Coat / Morning Suit

Morning jacket
If the dress code states “formal” and the event takes place before 5 PM, the appropriate attire would traditionally be a morning coat or morning suit.

This is the most formal of dress codes and is rarely used outside of royal weddings and events such as the Royal Ascot horse race in England. However, the very traditional style has grown popular for grooms if the wedding takes place in a castle-like venue.

Apart from the top hat, we can tailor a full morning dress ensemble to you. Here is what you need to wear:

  • Morning coat in dark hues (black, midnight blue or charcoal)
  • Dark grey striped trousers or alternatively a black-white puppytooth pattern
  • Double- or single breasted waistcoat in third color (pastels are great)
  • White or light blue shirt with regular collar
  • Bow ties are allowed
  • Black leather shoes (e.g. Oxfords)
  • Black or charcoal top hat

A morning suit features the same components, but here the coat, trousers and waistcoat are all cut from the exact same fabric.

If the dress code states “formal” and the event takes place after 5 PM, the appropriate attire would traditionally be a white tie outfit.

Equally as formal as the morning coat, this attire is meant for the same level of events, but taking place during the evening. Most people are more familiar with this outfit, the main characteristic being the tail coat. Sometimes the dress code would state “tails” or “full evening dress”, which are all the exact same outfit.

Here is what to wear for a formal evening dress code:
  • Black tail coat (also referred to as “dress coat”)
  • Black trousers with satin galon
  • White piqué waistcoat
  • White shirt with wing collar
  • White bow tie (opt for self-tie)
  • Highly polished or patent black leather oxfords. Court shoes/opera pumps are acceptable too
  • Black top hat, white gloves, pocket watch, white pocket square and a boutonniere are all acceptable accessories

Keep in mind, although the dress codes states white “tie”, the only appropriate neckwear is a bow tie!

White Tie Jacket

Black Tie / Stroller

MxW Mond of Copenhagen black fresco mohair tuxedo

If the dress code states “semi-formal” and the event takes place after 5 PM, the appropriate attire would traditionally be a black tie outfitBefore 5 PM, the appropriate attire would be the “stroller” or a “lounge suit”.

Don’t be fooled by the “semi”-prefix – this is likely the strictest dress code for most social events. If the event takes place during the day time, choose the stroller (a semi-formal version of the morning coat with the only difference being that the jacket is a traditional suit jacket) or the lounge suit (dark-colored 3-piece suit worn with black tie and black shoes).
Here is what to wear for a “semi-formal evening” dress code:
Important to remember: Never wear a tuxedo before 5 PM, and the only appropriate neckwear for a tuxedo is a bow tie!

You might be able to opt for a white or off-white dinner jacket for the “semi-formal” dress code, but proceed with caution. If the dress codes states “strictly black tie” always go for the traditional black tuxedo.

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Suit / Dress Clothes

man in navy blue wedding suit and knit wool tie in grey

If the dress code states “dress clothes” or simply “dark suit”, the appropriate attire would traditionally be a dark-hued 3-piece suit with tie.

Moving into slightly less restricted dress code territory also means room for more interpretation – which only adds to the confusion, we know! The traditional suit and an optional waistcoat are the main components here. The dark-colored, 3-piece suit is the more formal option in this category (and also called the lounge suit, which is acceptable as the daytime option of the “semi-formal” dress code). The least formal version is a light colored suit.

If you are in doubt which is more appropriate, the venue should give an indication; castle-like wedding venue = dark 3-piece suit, elegant garden wedding = light-colored regular suit.

Here is an option for a “dark suit” dress code:
Note: Shirt and tie are still required!

You might be able to opt for a less traditional tuxedo (e.g. burgundy dinner jacket + black trousers), if the groom/host is wearing a dark 3-piece suit.

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    The TwistAir fabric, woven exclusively from Mond, is our latest and most comprehensive fabric collection to date. Woven in the UK, this 300g fabric features a breathable, wrinkle-resistant weave.
    With a softening finish, TwistAir is not only comfortable but also offers a natural stretch. Ideal for various occasions, TwistAir keeps you cool and fresh with its breathability. It maintains a polished look, thanks to its remarkable resistance to wrinkles.
    Experience the luxury of its soft touch and elegant drape.
    Our TwistAir fabrics are designed to be the ultimate fabric that checks all the boxes for every wearer – from the busy professional at the office to the groom seeking a sharp and comfortable look on their wedding day.
    This fabric features an open weave that facilitates excellent breathability and unmatched comfort.

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Casual

Bride in wedding dress standing with her groom in his beige linen three-piece suit

A dress code for a wedding would rarely state “casual”, but this is what is implied when no dress code is given, except for a theme, such as “garden- or beach wedding”.

Although this dress code is much less strict than the others, it can indeed be one of the more challenging to dress for, as “casual” can have different meanings depending on the recipient. You can never go wrong in a light-colored, traditional suit with a shirt and tie/bow tie and a nice pair of shoes. In Scandinavia, (clean!) sneakers can be appropriate, but opt for a nice suede shoe or loafer if in doubt.

Here is our take on a “casual” dress code:

  • Blazer
  • Light colored trousers
  • Nice shirt with regular collar
  • Optional tie or bow-tie (bright colors acceptable)
  • Nice shoes (e.g. suede oxfords or loafers)

Rule of thumb: for a “casual” wedding, you still need to be more dressed up than you normally are.

This dress code is the perfect opportunity to sport an outfit in a more casual fabric such as linen or corduroy, and shirts in a more casual weave such as oxford or chambray.

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