A Guide to Shoulder Styles – Normal, Roped, Soft and Natural Shoulders

1 andreas weinas in a three piece navy blue twistair suit by mond of copenhagen

Shoulders Make The Suit

In this article, we’ll look into the various shoulder styles offered by MOND and explain why shoulders are one of the most crucial aspects of suits.

Shoulders serve as one of the most defining features of a jacket’s silhouette. The shoulder area establishes the framework for the suit’s silhouette and drape, making the fit and cut highly essential.
Equally important is the emotional resonance carried by the shoulder expression. The shoulder you choose gives you the desired look you could wish for.
For example, for business purposes, a stronger, more masculine shoulder line with padding would be optimal, whereas, for a sports jacket or casual use, lightly padded or unconstructed shoulders would be preferred.

Let’s delve into the different shoulder styles.

Normal Shoulder Construction

In our Normal shoulder option, we’ve made a design with a relatively slim 14mm shoulder pad. This choice gives you a blend of classic elegance and contemporary refinement, ensuring a sophisticated professional appearance.
Ideal for refined work environments or making a statement at formal events like weddings, this shoulder style offers a polished look without unnecessary embellishments.

Roped Shoulder Construction

Our Roped Shoulder option makes a formal jacket with a broader shoulder profile. By enhancing the padding in the sleeve head, we create the illusion of the sleeves extending beyond the shoulder line. Despite the increased padding, the shoulder pad remains relatively slim at 14mm. This construction is particularly suitable for individuals with sloping shoulders or those aiming to achieve a highly formal, often referred to as British, aesthetic.

Soft Shoulder Construction

Our Soft shoulder boasts a 7mm-thick light shoulder pad and a split seam, resulting in a clean, continuous shoulder line extending down the sleeve. This configuration offers a soft, less constructed appearance. Additionally, not everyone desires to accentuate their shoulders. Some individuals, particularly men with already broad shoulders, prefer not to further widen them. Instead, they opt for a sportier or more subdued look, characterized by soft shoulders that maintain a natural and seamless line from the top of the shoulder to the arm. This option is a staff favorite.

Natural Pleated Shoulder Construction

Our Natural Pleated shoulder features nothing but a small piece of canvas, along with a overlapping seam with shirring, to create a clean and continuous shoulder line that extends down the sleeve. It lends itself to a soft and less constructed look. This shoulder is finished with intentional pleats for comfort. These are small, puckered pleats that showcase the tailor’s handwork and are prominently featured in most spalla camicia suit jackets.

Select this shoulder if your aim is to achieve a refined, yet relaxed aesthetic with a touch of artisanal craftsmanship.

Pros and Cons of each Shoulder Construction 

1. Roped Shoulder:

Pros: Creates a formal, authoritative silhouette with broader shoulders. The increased padding in the sleeve head enhances the appearance of sleeve extension.

Cons: May not be suitable for individuals with naturally broad shoulders, as it could further accentuate width.

2. Soft Shoulder:

Pros: Offers a soft, relaxed look with a clean and continuous shoulder line. The light shoulder pad ensures comfort and a less structured appearance.

Cons: May lack the structured formality desired for certain formal occasions or professional settings.

3. Normal Shoulder:

Pros: Strikes a balance between formality and modernity with a relatively slim 14mm shoulder pad. Suitable for various settings, from business meetings to formal events.

Cons: Might not provide enough definition for individuals seeking a more pronounced shoulder appearance.

4. Natural Pleated Shoulder:

Pros: Provides a soft and less constructed look with intentional pleats for comfort. The small, puckered pleats showcase artisanal craftsmanship.

Cons: The pleated design may not appeal to those seeking a sleeker, more streamlined shoulder silhouette.

In Conclusion

In conclusion, the choice of shoulder type plays a significant role in defining the overall look and feel of a suit. Each option offers its own set of advantages and considerations.
While the Roped Shoulder exudes formality and authority, it may not be ideal for those with already broad shoulders. The Soft Shoulder provides a relaxed, comfortable fit but may lack the structured appearance desired for certain occasions. The Normal Shoulder strikes a balance between formality and timeless elegance, making it a versatile choice for various settings. Finally, the Natural Pleated Shoulder offers a soft, artisanal look with unique “shirring”, although it may not appeal to those seeking a sleeker silhouette.

Ultimately, understanding the pros and cons of each shoulder type allows individuals to make informed decisions based on their personal style preferences and the specific demands of the occasion.

Questions on Suit Shoulders

What are natural shoulders on a suit?

Natural shoulders on a suit have minimal padding, allowing the fabric to drape smoothly over the wearer’s shoulders without exaggerating their shape.

How do shoulder shapes affect the overall fit of a garment?

Shoulder shapes play a crucial role in determining the fit and silhouette of a garment. Different shoulder shapes can emphasize or downplay certain aspects of the wearer’s physique, ultimately influencing the overall look and feel of the clothing.

What are the different types of shoulders on clothing?

Different types of shoulders on clothing include padded shoulders, raglan shoulders, dropped shoulders, and pleated shoulders, each offering a distinct silhouette and style.

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