Making the most comfortable suit possible: A guide

Do you really have to choose between comfort and style?

Suits are not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of comfortable clothing – and understandably so. The main problem with suits is that they often get too hot and restrict movement. It is, however, possible to design a suit that avoids these problems altogether. The first thing you need to do is identify what you liked and disliked about the suits you’ve worn, as you may have encountered less common problems. In this guide we’ll look at solutions that seem clever and those that actually work.

Carlos Domord in a brown custom made Twistair suit by mond of copenhagen

Heat and Fabrics

The most important factor when it comes to warmth is the fabric you choose. The most common fabric is wool , and rightly so – it drapes beautifully and feels good against the skin. However, it is also a pretty warm fabric. The classic way to circumvent this is to use a thinner fabric. This works to an extent as the thinner fabric insulates less, but at the expense of durability and drape. We recommend using a more comfortable, airy weave. This means that the fabric has tiny holes and “breathes”, which happens to be the a key feature of our new TwistAir Collection.

If you don’t want your wedding to be too formal, linen is an alternative material that is generally very breathable. It’s a plant fiber, which means it tends to wrinkle, but that’s part of the charm. If you want to combine linen and formality, you could opt for a dinner jacket, for example. It is an unconventional way to use linen, but the result is extremely stylish and original. 

Our TwistAir fabric

One of the most breathable and elegant wool fabrics on the market, made exclusively for Mond

Linen

Closeup of a man in a custom navy blue linen suit, striped shirt and textured blue tie

Linen is light, airy and will wrinkle very easily, but that is part of the charm.

Cotton

Man leaning against wall, standing with his arms crossed. He's wearing a taupe cotton suit, a white shirt and a striped brugundy tie

A beautiful and less common choice of fabric for suits, cotton also wrinkles, but less than linen, and does not retain heat.

a classic custom made three piece navy blue wedding suit

Heat and Construction

Although the fabric is the most important factor, the way you “build” your suit also has a crucial effect on temperature. If you are getting married in August or July, it might be a good idea to increase the ventilation in the fabric – this is achieved by using less lining. As well as full lining, we also offer the option of removing the lining at the back or leaving it out altogether. Removing the lining removes an extra layer of fabric between you and the suit, allowing air to circulate easier in and out of the jacket. Now, the lining is there for a reason; it helps maintain the shape of the fabric and makes the whole construction more stable. This is why it is preferable to remove the lining only at the back, for airability and comfort’s sake, leaving the front looking sharp as ever. Since the jacket can be opened at the front, removing the front lining makes less of a difference. However, in the hottest of summers, everything counts for those who run really hot, so you can also remove the entire lining.

Fully lined construction

The grey areas in this image are the lining, which covers the entire front and back of the jackets inside.

Half lined construction

The half lined construction is open in the back, while covering the parts that experience the most friction; the front and shoulders.

Unlined construction

The unlined construction features no gray area i.e. lining, such a suite will generally have less structure and drape to it.

Movement and Construction

The logical assumption is that a roomier suit will give you comfort through freedom of movement  – well yes, but actually no. It’s true that a bigger suit is less restrictive, but  (apart from looking like a kid in your dad’s suit), simply getting a large suit off the rack will present you with two challenges:

For one, the waist of the trousers will be too wide, so you’ll have to stuff and fold loose fabric under your belt. This is just as uncomfortable and unfashionable as it sounds.

Second, the armholes in the jacket will also be bigger, which actually ends up restricting your arms’ mobility – arguably the most important kind of mobility! Having the suit custom tailored is the more succesful (albeit a bit pricier) way to ensure mobility. It’ll give you room where you need it and spare fabric where it doesn’t detract from the general look and comfort. Also, ask for high-sitting and slightly smaller armholes. This will give you the most arm movement and is especially important for those who like to dance.

And for those that want a suit with the trendy oversized look, opting for a tailored suit with a looser fit is often the way to go. You’ll still have jacket and trouser sleeves that are the right length, and the waist will look a lot more natural – as well as achieving that relaxed look you so desired.

the fit guide
Closeup of linen trousers

The Sideadjusters

There is another design feature that is worth mentioning; the side adjusters. Side adjusters are small straps on the side that discreetly and instantly let you regulate the circumference of the waist; giving you more or less room around your stomach. This is extremely useful when you want trousers for your suit that make you look sharp while you stand, and comfortable to wear when you sit. It also makes your waist appear thinner as it removes the need for a belt.

Even the most comfortable suit can never beat a set of joggers, nor should it. The quality of a suit is that it can bring out the best in any man, visually. But it’s a fine line to walk, if the clothes feel wrong or uncomfortable, you won’t feel or look good. Consider that a good suit lives proportionally longer, and is way a garment that you’d actually like to wear.

Questions about comfort and style

What fabrics to choose for a summer wedding?

Depending on the occasion and the season, you’ll want to choose a fabric that’s airy, elegant and comfortable to wear all day. Firstly, it is always important to choose natural fibres such as wool, linen or cotton. Synthetic fibres are strongly discouraged as they tend to smell and become damp with prolonged wear. Depending on how it is woven, wool can be quite comfortable, even on a warm summer’s day. If you can find it, a light and beautiful wool weave such as TwistAir is a good choice, this is a special type of Panama weave that breathes very well and has a bit of natural stretch. Linen is a natural choice for summer suits as it lends itself very well to loose weaves.

Can I wear a waistcoat to a summer wedding?

A vest is a nice addition, either in the same colour as the original suit or in a different colour. However, it is inevitably an extra layer of insulation to carry around your torso. It is, however, a very good excuse to take off your jacket early in the wedding. Regardless, we recommend that if you opt for a three-piece suit, it should be made from a lightweight, breathable fabric.

Where can I buy a comfortable suit?

To make a suit comfortable many different factors need to be taken into consideration; warmth, fit and use. The only way to get a truly comfortable suit that fits, is to get it made to your measure. That is why we recommend that you’ll get it custom made to your needs. 

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