You’ve likely heard the term “super” in wool classification, but do you know its meaning?
Understanding wool grading, micron measurements, and fabric collections is crucial for selecting the perfect suit. From medium grades for daily wear to very high grades for special occasions, each offers a unique blend of quality, durability, and luxury.
Grades of Wool
“The term ‘super’ refers to the diameter of yarn fibers in fabric weaving, originally categorized by British wool merchants as ‘low,’ ‘medium,’ ‘fine,’ and ‘super,’ with the latter representing the finest quality. Higher Super Numbers indicate thinner wool fibers, creating a lighter fabric with a smoother feel. Although this results in a more delicate texture, it may affect durability.
When it comes to choosing wool grades for different occasions, it’s important to consider the specific qualities of each grade.
Medium grades (70 to 100) strike a balance between quality and durability, making them ideal for everyday wear, especially if you’re in a suit regularly.
High grades (100 to 130) provide a soft and polished look, making them perfect for special occasions such as client dinners or parties. However, they do require a bit more care. If you have many suits in your collection, these can be used as day-to-day clothing.
Very high grades (above 140) are extremely fine and luxurious, but they demand extra attention and should be reserved for those truly special moments due to their delicate nature and susceptibility to wear in high-pressure areas.
When choosing your wool fabric quality, use these different classifications of wool as your guideline.
Microns
Textile fibers magnified. Credit Penn State University.
A micron, or micrometer, represents one millionth of a meter. When it comes to wool, the micron measurement indicates the fineness of the fibers. For instance, an 18.5 micron wool, often referred to as Super 100, has fibers that are 18.5 millionths of a meter across.
The Super numbers correspond to specific micron ranges, and they typically decrease in increments of ten:
- Super 100’s: μm 18.75
- Super 110’s: μm 18.25
- Super 120’s: μm 17.75
- Super 130’s: μm 17.25
- Super 140’s: μm 16.75
- Super 150’s: μm 16.25
- Super 160’s: μm 15.75
- Super 170’s: μm 15.25
- Super 180’s: μm 14.75
- Super 190’s: μm 14.25
- Super 200’s: μm 13.75
Merino wool are generally less than 24 μm. The finest ever produced comes from New Zealand, measuring as low as 10.9 microns. Described as having fibers so fine they resemble strands of cobwebs, the wool exhibits minimal crimp, barely visible to the naked eye.
So what is best? Low, medium or high microns?
The “best” micron range depends on your specific needs and preferences. Lower microns, typically found in high-grade wool (such as Super 130’s and above), offer finer fibers that result in a smoother and softer fabric, ideal for special occasions requiring a very formel look. On the other hand, medium-grade wool (around 70 to 100 microns) strikes a balance between quality and durability, making it suitable for everyday wear. The choice between low, medium, or high microns ultimately depends on factors like the intended use of the fabric, personal style, and desired level of comfort and durability.
The most important factor when selecting a suit fabric might be the weight. We’ll come back to this in another post.
Collections
This is the reason we at MOND have chosen to focus on two collections: ‘The TwistAir™’ and ‘The Superior Wool’ (coming soon).
The TwistAir™, our most recent and most comprehensive collection, offers you the perfect everyday suit. Coming in at 21 microns, it ensures that quality, breathability, crease resistance and durability. This collection should be a part of every gentleman’s wardrobe, especially for those seeking the most versatile suit fabric out there that can be worn in most seasons and can serve you for years to come.
Our Superior Wool collection is specially designed to provide the luxurious feel of higher super quality, while maintaining the drape and durability typically linked with lower microns. With super 130’s and a weight of 310g, you’re guaranteed the best of both worlds.
We chose these wool classification because we know it will offer you the perfect suiting fabric.
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933,82 €The Navy Super S130’s. This custom suit is made to fit your body perfectly, and are sure to make you look your best.
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933,82 €This tan TwistAir suit has a beautiful sand/beige colour with a slightly cooler hue. This suit is perfect for weddings as it combines some unique qualities, not only aesthetically but also practically. The fabric is wool, making it strong and formal, but the weave makes it light and comfortable - almost linen-like, but without the wrinkles. We've presented the suit in our business preset, our most minimal preset, to allow the beautiful colour and texture of the fabric to take centre stage. And it should be noted that this suit is by no means restricted to weddings, it is first and foremost a warm weather suit and can be styled as business wear as well as for the groom.
Wool is the gold standard for suit fabrics and this one is special as it is part of Mond's very own TwistAir collection. The fabric is woven with a special high twist that creates a thin and strong fabric with excellent drape. In addition, the TwistAir fabric is treated with a special finish that gives it a soft touch. As well as being beautiful and exclusive, this fabric is also very comfortable. The strong and durable yarn allows for a slightly looser weave that is breathable and even has some natural stretch, despite being made from 100% wool. Weighing in at 300g/m2, it is definitely on the lighter side for a wool fabric.
Styling this suit for a wedding is an easy affair, though it should be noted that this suit by nature of the relaxed cloth is not the first choice for a very formal wedding. For a wedding combine the suit with the mandatory white shirt, either a contrasting dark or complementing light tie. When it comes to shoes this suit goes wonderfully with all shades of brown, where darker brown shoes make for a more formal outfit. Black shoes are notoriously difficult to pull off with a beige suit, and thus we discourage it. If you’d like to take the formality of the suit up a notch you can always add waistcoat by asking about it in the chat. Since this suit is more on the subtle end you can be generous with accessories without fear of overdoing it. A personal favorite of ours is the boutonnière. A part form that, some cufflinks and a pocket square always make for a good addition.
Huddersfield is a textile mill from the town of Huddersfield in West Yorkshire, England. The town itself has grown around the textile industries since the Industrial Revolution. What makes Huddersfield unique is their extremely soft water in which the raw wool is washed, before it is woven into luxurious and unique suiting fabrics. To learn more about their production and dedication towards sustainable production please visit their website.
In conclusion
Understanding the complexities of wool classification, micron measurements, and fabric collections is crucial for selecting the right suit fabric. The term “super” in wool classification refers to the diameter of yarn fibers, with higher super numbers indicating finer fibers and lighter fabrics. Medium-grade wools strike a balance between quality and durability, while high-grade wools provide a soft and polished look for special occasions. The choice of micron range depends on individual preferences and specific needs, with lower microns offering smoother and softer fabrics suitable for formal occasions, and medium-grade wools offering a balance between quality and durability for everyday wear.
At MOND, we focus on two collections to cater to different preferences and needs. Our TwistAir™ collection offers the perfect everyday suit fabric, providing quality, breathability, crease resistance, and durability. On the other hand, our Superior Wool collection combines the luxurious feel of higher super quality with the drape and durability typically associated with lower microns. We believe that these wool classifications offer the perfect suiting fabric, ensuring versatility, comfort, and style for every gentleman’s wardrobe.
FAQ
What does the "S" rating on wool indicate?
The “S” rating on wool refers to the fineness or quality of the wool fibers. It is commonly used in the wool industry to indicate the diameter of the fibers, with a higher S number indicating finer wool. The “S” stands for “super” and is followed by a number, such as S80, S100, S120, etc. The number corresponds to the average diameter of the wool fibers in microns, with higher numbers indicating finer fibers. For example, S80 wool has an average fiber diameter of around 18.8 microns, while S120 wool has an average fiber diameter of around 15.8 microns. Finer wool is often considered higher quality and is prized for its softness and luxurious feel.
What distinguishes wool grades
Wool grades range from medium to very high, providing different qualities for diverse occasions. Super 130’s, falling within the high-grade category (100 to 130), deliver a refined appearance suitable for special events while maintaining a balance between quality and durability.
Why is understanding micron measurements important when selecting wool fabrics?
Micron measurements indicate the fineness of wool fibers, with lower microns representing finer wool. Understanding micron measurements helps in selecting wool fabrics with specific characteristics, such as softness, breathability, and durability, tailored to individual preferences and needs.
