Wool Classification Explained

Grades of Wool

“The term ‘super’ refers to the diameter of yarn fibers in fabric weaving, originally categorized by British wool merchants as ‘low,’ ‘medium,’ ‘fine,’ and ‘super,’ with the latter representing the finest quality. Higher Super Numbers indicate thinner wool fibers, creating a lighter fabric with a smoother feel. Although this results in a more delicate texture, it may affect durability.

When it comes to choosing wool grades for different occasions, it’s important to consider the specific qualities of each grade.
Medium grades (70 to 100) strike a balance between quality and durability, making them ideal for everyday wear, especially if you’re in a suit regularly.
High grades (100 to 130) provide a soft and polished look, making them perfect for special occasions such as client dinners or parties. However, they do require a bit more care. If you have many suits in your collection, these can be used as day-to-day clothing.
Very high grades (above 140) are extremely fine and luxurious, but they demand extra attention and should be reserved for those truly special moments due to their delicate nature and susceptibility to wear in high-pressure areas.

When choosing your wool fabric quality, use these different classifications of wool as your guideline.

Microns

Textile fibers magnified. Credit Penn State University.

A micron, or micrometer, represents one millionth of a meter. When it comes to wool, the micron measurement indicates the fineness of the fibers. For instance, an 18.5 micron wool, often referred to as Super 100, has fibers that are 18.5 millionths of a meter across.

The Super numbers correspond to specific micron ranges, and they typically decrease in increments of ten:

• Super 100’s: μm 18.75
• Super 110’s: μm 18.25
• Super 120’s: μm 17.75
• Super 130’s: μm 17.25
• Super 140’s: μm 16.75
• Super 150’s: μm 16.25
• Super 160’s: μm 15.75
• Super 170’s: μm 15.25
• Super 180’s: μm 14.75
• Super 190’s: μm 14.25
• Super 200’s: μm 13.75

Merino wool are generally less than 24 μm. The finest ever produced comes from New Zealand, measuring as low as 10.9 microns. Described as having fibers so fine they resemble strands of cobwebs, the wool exhibits minimal crimp, barely visible to the naked eye.

So what is best? Low, medium or high microns?

The “best” micron range depends on your specific needs and preferences. Lower microns, typically found in high-grade wool (such as Super 130’s and above), offer finer fibers that result in a smoother and softer fabric, ideal for special occasions requiring a very formel look. On the other hand, medium-grade wool (around 70 to 100 microns) strikes a balance between quality and durability, making it suitable for everyday wear. The choice between low, medium, or high microns ultimately depends on factors like the intended use of the fabric, personal style, and desired level of comfort and durability.

The most important factor when selecting a suit fabric might be the weight. We’ll come back to this in another post.

Collections

This is the reason we at MOND have chosen to focus on two collections: ‘The TwistAir™’ and ‘The Superior Wool’ (coming soon).

The TwistAir™, our most recent and most comprehensive collection, offers you the perfect everyday suit. Coming in at 21 microns, it ensures that quality, breathability, crease resistance and durability. This collection should be a part of every gentleman’s wardrobe, especially for those seeking the most versatile suit fabric out there that can be worn in most seasons and can serve you for years to come.

Our Superior Wool collection is specially designed to provide the luxurious feel of higher super quality, while maintaining the drape and durability typically linked with lower microns. With super 130’s and a weight of 310g, you’re guaranteed the best of both worlds.

We chose these wool classification because we know it will offer you the perfect suiting fabric.

In conclusion

Understanding the complexities of wool classification, micron measurements, and fabric collections is crucial for selecting the right suit fabric. The term “super” in wool classification refers to the diameter of yarn fibers, with higher super numbers indicating finer fibers and lighter fabrics. Medium-grade wools strike a balance between quality and durability, while high-grade wools provide a soft and polished look for special occasions. The choice of micron range depends on individual preferences and specific needs, with lower microns offering smoother and softer fabrics suitable for formal occasions, and medium-grade wools offering a balance between quality and durability for everyday wear.

At MOND, we focus on two collections to cater to different preferences and needs. Our TwistAir™ collection offers the perfect everyday suit fabric, providing quality, breathability, crease resistance, and durability. On the other hand, our Superior Wool collection combines the luxurious feel of higher super quality with the drape and durability typically associated with lower microns. We believe that these wool classifications offer the perfect suiting fabric, ensuring versatility, comfort, and style for every gentleman’s wardrobe.

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